A Week on the Stephen Taber: Food, Wine and Racing: Lobster Bake

I woke up to the muffled sound of a lobster boat motor.  It wasn't the guy in cabin 3 snoring.  (that's my story and I am sticking to it) what I found when I made my way above deck was fresh hot coffee, and the smiling faces of some other early risers.  Kat and Will were putting away the oil lanterns and swabbing the deck, and I sipped my Rock City Roasters Coffee and watched morning begin at Isle au Haut.

We had adventure ahead of us.  After a delicious breakfast of galley made hot biscuits, local jams, herbed scrambled eggs and locally made sausages, we took a shore trip for a walk to Black Dinah chocolates.  Just as we were boarding Babe, the Tabor's yawl boat, Captain Barnes announced that he was going to make a call out to the local Lobster men and try to buy some lobsters for a lobster bake. (I know, they aren't baked, they are steamed....  Humor me).

Black Dinah Chocolates is a well known artisanal chocolate company run by some Silicon Valley escapees. They fled California for a remote, island off the coast of Maine, and they haven't looked back.  (even though all of the chocolates are made on the island, they did open a retail store on the mainland - but most of their business is mail order thanks making good products and praise from Martha Stewart, they have a firm foothold in the market )

After an hour or so of wandering Isle au Haut, fueled by a delicious breakfast, and some chocolate, we made it back to the dock to wait for our ride back to the Tabor.  But Becky and Andy (two of my favorite guests that week) were already chatting up a local lobsterman.  Some of us rode back in Babe that yawl boat, and Becky, Andy, Will and Lindsay rode back with our luncheon main course on the lobster boat.

As soon as they pulled aside, Kat was hauling out the Tabor's lobster pot, Captain Barnes was talking business and I had the camera at the ready.

Now Chef Anna and Meghann kicked into high gear.  As we set sail, the goal was, ready the picnic lunch, and find the perfect spot to cook it.  We found the perfect spot, a deserted island with a whole lot of history behind it:  Wreck Island.

I was surprised that Captain Barnes didn't salt it up and start telling the story of wreck Island, especially after we found a deserted campsite that looked like it was fled from.  (seriously, who leaves a full case of beer behind?  Well, it was Miller Light) The fact is, Wreck Island is Haunted.  Yes, Haunted with a capital H.  Hey, we were only there for lunch, and I didn't tell the story, but just Google it.  I was thrilled to be there, and even though I left stuffed to the gills, I never felt a chocking sensation (unlike the crew of the ship that mistakenly went ashore there in the 18th century...)

Enough about ghosts, let's talk wine and the food that pairs with it!!

The advance party set up the fire and laid out the appetizers.  Epicurious FRENCH ONION DIP.  No soup mix to be found, chef Anna made this dip from scratch, and I could have licked the bowl clean.  (but someone beat me to it!)

And, they laid out the wine.  Box Head `10 Australian Shiraz in the shade (there were some non seafood eaters in the group.  They got steak, I left the shiraz for them), and the most delicious Vihno Verde that I have had in a long time.  Some bottles of Vera Vinho Verde`10 were chilling in a bucket until I got my hands on it.  It was perfect.  Just a hint of citrus, some minerality, and with the lobster dredged in butter??? On of my top 10 meals EVER.

I'll shut up now and just leave you with pictures of lunch:

Anam Cara Rosé of Pinot Noir `11 *** #WBC12

I flew in for the annual Wine Bloggers Conference #WBC12 this year in Portland Oregon.  My friend Valerie, Wine Dog Review's writer, blogger and producer hosted a #WINELOVERS Wine County Dinner.  Sadly, I was at 36,00 feet when all my wine writer friends sat down to a local cheese tasting, with wine pouring throughout the night as they made their way through four delicious courses prepared by Chef Abby McManigle of Tina's Bistro.  Even though I was five hours late, they saved some plates for me! And some wine!!!

I fell in love with this Anam Cara  Rosé of Pinot Noir.  It was really well balanced, fresh, pretty with just a hint of sweetness. At 12% ETOH I was in no danger of a headache the next morning.  I paired it with poached salmon with tarragon, new potatoes and beets...  Well, even though Nikita and Jory (the dogs of Wine Dog Review) were begging for some scraps form the table, I showed great will power and I didn't share.

I ate out of sequence and then moved on to the starter: a delicious duck salad, and then braised lamb on a bed of farro.  Dessert was a fresh, local berry riff on shortcake, paired with Anam Cara dessert wine (there was just enough left in the bottle).

Experiences like last night are why I love writing about wine.  I meet the most amazing people, and we get share memorable meals and adventures.  And I had a chance to discover a fantastic Oregon wine producer:  Anam Cara. Thank you Valerie!

When Wine Writers Party.... The Aftermath

Sauvion Pouilly-Fume Les Ombelles `10 gift/$22.95 **(*)

This was a bonus bottle when S. ordered a few cases from Sherry Lehmann in NYC. after looking at the back of the bottle, it looks like Sherry-Lehmann is the USA importer; I couldn't get very much information on the wine aside from their notes.

100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley.  I can't find this wine on the producer Sauvion's website. It is an ok wine, around 13% ETOH.  We over chilled it at first, and it was a full on mouthful of crisp, sour grapefruit.  After it warmed up a bit, it became a richer wine with a more subtle citrus taste.  We paired it with Shrimp and Grits (recipe from Stella's Southern Bistro in Simpsonville, SC).

After dinner was finished, we got on to an evening of tree trimming, along with drinking some of Tom's Homemade Eggnog.  That stuff is deliciously lethal - and a highlight of the Holiday Season.

Willm Reserve Riesling `07 $11.99 ***

I bought this as a safety wine. It was a safe bet! Good price, nice crisp apple taste, low ETOH (12%). It paired well with our dinner of Stella's Southern Bistro Signature Shrimp and Grits. After having them at Monticello in July at the Wine Bloggers' Conference, I have become obsessed with Shrimp and Grits. Since I am attending Greenville, South Carolina's euphoria from 9/22 - 25, it is all things Southern this summer. Well, except for this wine. This Riesling is from Northeastern France, Alsace AOC.

Bone dry with a hint of lime, this crisp, chilled white wine was an excellent foil for our Shrimp and Grits. I was given the recipe by one of euphoria's organizers, and the highlight of my day was making it. (of course, in true Yankee style, I cut the butter and cream in half) Even so, it was delicious, and I can't wait to go to Greenville and try the real thing. (lipitor in hand)

This Riesling was perfect with the buttery shrimp, the hint of Cajun spice in the ragout and the creaminess of the grits. It is safe, delicious and a excellent match for a rich seafood dish.

Originally, I had wanted to serve this dish with a Virginia Viognier, but I was stupid when I was visiting Breaux Vineyards last month, and didn't buy any.

Thank you Willm Reserve Riesling for saving the day.

And just so you can see the inspiration for my newly found shrimp and grits obsession, I give you Keswick Hall's Shrimp & Grits with Fresh Corn. I had it at Monticello with a Vidal Blanc, and I am dreaming of it still.

Barren Ridge Vidal Blanc `10 $15.00 #wbc11 liveblog:

Presented by Pauline Dubier, Winemaker.  She's French - from Toulouse and she has brought a French touch to Virginia's Barren Ridge Vineyard.

This is a very interesting, subtle yet beautiful wine.  Fruit forward with a minerality that makes it elegant. It is like a Chanel suit made in Virginia. All of the classic touches of a sublime wine - I taste slight honeydew, with a Blue Ridge Mountain appellation.  This is a go to cafe wine, or a great drinks wine when with friends.


Notes after the Live Blogging Session: This wine haunted me.  I liked it, and it was different.  It is made from Vidal Blanc grapes, and that was new to me.  I was so impressed with Pauline and the woman who was pouring for her that when I realized that they were serving Crab Cakes at our reception at Monticello that night, I decided that theirs would be my dinner wine.

Of course they were pouring a different label: Tinkling Spring `09 (a $19.00 Viognier and Vidal Blanc blend) - also quite good, but I can easily say that out of all the whites that I tried in the live blogging session, theirs was the one I immediately thought of to go with my crab cake and that I ran back to get another taste of.

Montinore Estate "Almost Dry" Riesling `07 (not TJ's) $13.00 glass/$12.00 bottle retail

Harry's Tap Room, Dulles Airport

From Oregon. Very dry. No sweetness at all. Mildly citrus, and slightly sour. Fruity, long finish. Not a sipping wine, but maybe a food wine. Having it with a Crabcake Sandwich. $13.00 for a 9oz glass.

This is my first mobile post!

Château du Rouet "Cuvee Reservée" Côtes de Provence Rosé `10 $13.99 (not TJ's) ****

We've had this 2010 rose twice now, and I'm liking it more and more.  It is dry, light with a predominantly tart raspberry flavor that was perfect with both our fresh Striped Bass and Arroz Verde (left); and our dinner earlier this month of grilled Langoustines (right) with Mark Miller's Indian Market Cookbook's Roasted Corn and Mushroom Salsa, Black Bean Pancakes and Chipolte Crema (we are on a southwestern kick this summer).

How is it that a classic French Rosé can pair so perfectly with a southwestern menu?  I think that it is the dry fruitiness that cleans you taste-buds after bite of fiery chipotle.  I love that this is NOT sweet.  It is fresh, light and has some depth.  I like it for what it is not. It is not white, it is not red, but it has highlights of each in every sip.  The bottle is feminine, the color is a light salmon, and the scent is fruity, but there is a slight musk that belies how it was made. 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, this is our first 2010 vintage wine.  At 12.5% ETOH it added a slight kick, but all in all this is just a perfect, subtle Rosé at a great price point.

Vigneto di Gino Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi `09 DOC (not TJ's) **** $13.99

Summer is here and we were hankering for fried clams.  Since there are no clam shacks anywhere near us, we consulted Marcella Hazan's Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking and came up with White Clam Sauce to satisfy our craving for bivalves.  As I was shopping for ingredients, JPH chilled this Verdicchio for both cooking and drinking.

Named for grandfather Gino, this classic white wine (DOC Marche  Dei Castelli Di Jesi ) is a really good, complex white that went perfectly with our clam pasta and cucumber salad with lemon and mint.  It was a refreshing meal on a humid summer evening.

Castelli Di Jesi is in Italy's Marche, the province of Ancona on the top eastern calf of the boot.  Castelli Di Jesi is one of the oldest DOC Marche regions (the castle is still there) and this bottle is a fine example of their indigenous 100% Verdicchio varietal, history and quality DOC standards.  Grandfather Gino should be proud to have this wine named after him.

First pour: It has a fruity scent that almost promises sweetness, but when I drank it, there was a minerality that tingled. There was discussion at the table as to what exactly the overwhelming flavor was, and S. hit the nail on the head "Crisp Plum".  I could easily imagine biting into a crisp, fresh plum, and the taste of the wine sudden;y made perfect sense.  There is a little bit of citrus to it as well, and it has a faint sweetness, and a faint bitter finish/aftertaste that adds depth and highlights the upfront fruitiness. A big mouthful of fruit and a slow lingering finish makes it a great food wine, knitting together all of the flavors.  All in all, it is a great summer wine that paired really well with dinner. We'll have this again.

William Fevre Montmains Cru Chablis `07 $17.99 (Not TJ's) ****

JPH was shopping at Coves Discount and saw that they had a wine marked down to $17.99 from $39.99.  Out of sheer curiosity he bought a couple of bottles.  We cooked some left over grilled salmon in a white sauce, a fresh salad and I fried up some potatoes.  As I sauteed the onions for the white sauce, JPH grabbed the chilled bottle and poured me a glass.  It was like unwrapping a great Christmas present.  (and I know Christmas presents, last year, I got an i-Pad).

Wow.  Once again, I realized that I like Chablis.  Classic French Chablis with not a lot of oak, and a fresh young taste.  Made from Chardonnay, I need to remind myself that this is a very versatile varietal, and it really reflects where it is grown, and how it is fermented. JPH was succinct when he said "The French really know their Terrior".  My guest taster for the evening (hence forth known as Agent C.T. Why?) took a sniff and said "hmm, honey" I agreed, there was a sweet smell to it, but I said "more floral, like Honeysuckle".  Agent C.T. Why? took a sip and said "mmm, like a cold mountain water from a stream".  JPH said "Crisp Green Apple".  I said, upfront, it was subtle, but the finish was clean fruit, with a crisp bite and minerality.  "Oyster shells, yes, Oyster shells".  By the time S got home, the second bottle was well chilled and ready to be opened.  (Did I mention that this wine is really easy to drink???)

What a great find, and this wine tasted so fresh that I could not believe that it was an `07.  I love non-oaked, classic, complex Chablis.  It is official.

Domaine William Fevre does good work.  Well worth the price, and I am looking forward to having future bottles with company.  This is a special dinner wine. 

Menu:

Salmon in a white sauce with capers, cornishion and dill, fresh green salad and pan fried potatoes.


This wine should age well.  JPH found out that Coves only had a few cases.  I think that he may stock up on a few more bottles.  It is almost summertime, and this would be an excellent choice for a nice evening on the patio. Either alone or with food, what a great summer wine.  Originally, I balked at the cost, because we have found some great, interesting Italian whites lately, BUT, you can't go wrong with a classic, and this one works.

Planeta La Segreta Bianco Sicily IGT `09 $11.99 (not TJ's) ***

S. chose this wine.  Did I mention that she has good taste? We are just transitioning from a horrible winter to spring, the perennial season of mud. The gardens have been tortured by this past winter's carnage.  As the snow is washed away by rain, we can now see what has survived and what hasn't.  As for us, switching from a steady diet of red wine is a sign that we all have cabin fever.  S. started making noise about white wine a few weeks ago.  It is time to lighten up and start thinking of warmer, sunnier weather.  This Planeta La Segreta Bianco is a great harbinger of summer days and sunshine. (MEH styled and took the picture on the left)

Sicilian IGT. Planeta produces 11 out of the 16 wines that are designated Sicilian IGT. This La Segreta is a blend of 50% Grecanico, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier, 10% Fiano. At 13.5% ETOH, this is a bright, slightly acidic wine that is different than the run of the mill Italian white wine. The Chardonnay gives it a backbone.  It is fermented in steel tanks, so it tastes fresh and crisp.  The flavors of the other three varietals make this wine stand out as a glass of sunshine on a rainy spring day. The Fiano gives it a slight herbal/grassy taste, the Viognier brings in the citrus taste and some of the floral aroma, and the Grecanico (I think) is the slight sweetness - that could also be from the Viognier. It is a good blend, with a good flavor at a great price. It has a slight sour finish, that could be considered a kick of grapefruit tartness at the end.

I have had it twice.  The first time it was with Paella.  Paella (pictured above) is a dish that makes my mouth water every time I type it - and pictures drive me wild.  JPH had all the ingredients waiting for me when I got home from work, along with my favorite wooden spatula.  This wine is bright and citrusy and it cut through the heaviness of the rice; the acid of the wine brought the shrimp and the spiciness of the sausage to a new level.  The Paella was spicy and filling.  The wine was cold, crisp, slightly tart with a hint of sweetness and fantastic.



S. didn't get a chance to taste the bottle that she picked out on the first go round. (what can I say?  I liked it!) While I was shopping this week, I grabbed another bottle to have on hand so that she can try it too. It is an easy open screw top and I opened it for a lunch of arancini (rice balls from Razzano's in Glen Cove), prosciutto, fresh mozzarella and tomatoes. The wine was good with the prosciutto - maybe it has a hint of melon in the flavor profile as well.  It is acidic, so I couldn't see just sipping it, but as a food wine, it had me dreaming of a fresh grilled chicken Caesar Salad and sitting on the patio in the Summer sunshine.

On a rainy Spring day with the snow still melting away,  

Wine like this Sicilian is the promise of sunny days to come.

(photo ripped off from S's Facebook page!)

Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina Sannio `09 $13.99 (not TJ's) ***

My first comment:  "pretty".  I smelled the glass and it was fragrant.  Flowery. Delicate.  Pretty.  Then I sipped the wine and it was full of fruity goodness.  Apples and pineapple.  Not too tropical, and there was a distinct minerality that gave the wine a finish.  It wasn't sweet, but it wasn't dry.  It was in two words.... Just. Right.

But the truth is, the label had me at Vesuvius.  There is something about those Italians. So much history tied to food and drink. I was drinking a wine made from a varietal (Falanghina) that has been around since the Romans (the toga wearing, multi-deity worshiping kind, not the vespa riding, coffee drinkers of today). I think that it was fitting that JPH made Marcella Hazan's Zuppa di Pesce, it went perfectly with the rich spicy seafood stew. This wine not only cut through the spice, but it heightened the fish (shrimp, cod and calamari). I liked it.

Feudi di San Gregorio is the producer, Sannio is the region (the hilly region of Napoli) and Falanghina is the ancient grape that has historically produced good white wine; from the Romans right up the time-line to me, right here on the North Shore of Long Island. It is great to drink outside the box.  Trying a "new to me" varietal that not only tickled my palate but give me a history lesson as well. I say step outside the Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay rut every once in a while.  Expanding my horizons is fun!

Now, back to Vesuvius.
Pompeii is one of those places that has always intrigued me.

There is something about that ancient event that froze a city in time.  

It is on my list of places to see.  

Until then, I will leave you with a picture of relics from a Pompeii wine shop.  

Frozen in time in 79AD.

St. Michael-Eppan Pinot Grigio `09 $17.00 (not TJ's) ***

Blizzard, NY.  Leftovers from Christmas Eve. New iPad. Bottle of Pinot Grigio in the beer drawer of the fridge. (I just realized that this wine was a Christmas Present from my Boss.  Well done Boss!)  Welcome to my Boxing Day lunch.

I was going to start my great Malbec tasting week today... but, I cannot in good conscience let lobster go to waste (I am from Maine after all....).  So lunch and dinner are seafood and the blizzard drink of the day is this bottle of Pinot Grigio.

JPH makes an awesome Fish Pie, and this Pinot Grigio was a bright and fruity enough to pair with the shredded potato topped seafood goodness.(It also had the good fortune to be a cheap alternative to the only other bottle of white wine in the fridge - yes, I still choose my wine by color and then sticker price)

The Alto Adige region of Italy produced this fruity (pear/crisp apple) and dry (not sweet at all) Pinot Grigio.  Alto Adige is in the northeast mountainous part of Italy, on the top left of the boot cuff, and was once a part of Austria.  This wine really does share some characteristics with Austrian wine. From the winery of  St. Michael, it may be DOC Italian but they identify their region as South Tyrol, and that is pretty close to Sound of Music territory to me (that is when I go running - I don't like my hills alive) I feel like when I drink it, I am tasting Austrian roots. This Pinot Grigio is clean, subdued and was a nice contrast to the richness of the seafood and potato yet it has substance and no real taste of  ETOH (13.5% BTW) .

It is funny to me that if this wine is chilled (just from the fridge) it is crisp, snappy and bright.  I went to check on the laundry, got sidetracked by my new and shiny Christmas present; when I got back to the kitchen, the wine had warmed, was fuller and the fruit taste was more subtle.  Temperature really does affect wine. You could serve it at any temperature as far as I am concerned, you can't go wrong but I prefer it well chilled.  It was great with the seafood but I can also imagine it as a light, bright Summer wine as well.

Speaking of Summer, well, today is opposite day.
Here is the patio at 3:30 in the afternoon on 12/26/2010.

Jean-Paul Mollet Pouilly-Fumé les Sables `07 $34.99 (Not TJ's) ****

We buried a friend today, the morning of Christmas Eve.  Although Susan was Jewish, burying her today has made me more sensitive to life and to the people that I love. It is a Holiday of rejoicing, and tonight I want to rejoice and celebrate the relatively short decade that I have known her.  Susan M. Cohen, Esq. this review is for you.

Susan was an activist lawyer and breast cancer survivor.  It'll always be a debate - will she be best known for her Breast cancer advocacy or her running political campaigns and changing the landscape of the Judiciary?  Well, for me, it all boils down to a bottle of wine (story at the end of this review).

I finally arrived at home just after 8:30 PM.  After the burial in Connecticut, I spent my pre-arranged Christmas Eve dinner with people that I love and don't spend enough time with.  When I got home, JPH & S. were just washing up after their annual Christmas Eve family dinner.  Wanting to drink a glass of wine as I compared days with JPH & S, I polished off the last glass of this Pouilly-Fume, left over from what I am sure was an amazing fish dinner. I really just wanted to write about Susan and a wine review is appropriate, given our friendship. So, I sipped my wine and started composing this review in my head.

Now for the review:

What a great wine to have with fish.  It has a nice citrus taste - not bright, it is slightly heavy, but balanced with a deep minerality.  It sits in your mouth and after you have swallowed, it is like you have just licked a smooth block of granite.  I know it sounds weird to describe a wine as such, but really, it is these amazing changes that a fermented grape can go through that makes tasting different wines such an adventure.  The minerality is not a taste, but more of an after-feel, the "finish" of the wine, which makes for a great a contrast of the highlights of the citrus, and I would imagine, to the flavor of the fish.  Minerality is a good thing.

This is from the AOC region of the Loire Valley Pouilly-Fumé.  The wine is made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes, and it lives up to its spectacular provenance. I drank this wine as I watched Santa and her helper put presents around the tree.  The children were nestled snug in their beds and I was relaxing and recounting my day. There were tears today but there was also much joy and for that I am infinitely grateful.

Susan M. Cohen Esq. was one of my friend Nancy's Law School classmates and one of her closest friends.  Although I am not Jewish, I spent the Jewish High Holy days with Nancy, her family and Susan.  There is a Jewish law that a non Jew should not handle kosher wine.  One year, there was a large group at Nancy & Yori's for Rosh Hashanna and some of the group were strict orthodox.  Although I was aware of the rule of not touching the wine bottle (Yori always poured me two glasses of wine from the bottle, so that he would not have to refill my glass) Susan was worried that I would offend some of the other guests and she grabbed and protected the bottle. It was dramatic, passionate and totally Susan.  I loved her for that.  She would adhere to tradition, yet she was her own woman.

We spent many shabbos and holidays together.  Celebrating Jewish Holidays in the Lower East Side of NYC.  For me, a WASP from rural Maine that was one of the most exotic things I will ever do.  It was a totally foreign world and even as a complete outsider, I am embraced and loved in it (and I have learned some new vocabulary along the way).  On those quiet days, Susan, Nancy, Yarden and I did puzzles, talked, drank coffee and talked some more about work, life, adventure, disease, music - or whatever came to mind.  Like me, Susan never married (but she did break at least one heart - my score card on that front is zero); the both of us were holiday orphans and Nancy & Yori let us and many others become a part of their family's holiday traditions.   Susan dedicated her life to tenant's rights, representing the underprivileged; electing a fair judiciary (she ran countless judicial campaigns all around the United States); travel  - Antarctica, Alaska, Africa (and those are just the A's) and finally, her life's work as a breast cancer advocate and survivor.

In the end, she beat breast cancer -  because it wasn't the cancer that killed her.  It was the co-morbidity COPD.  She died after two days in hospice with loved ones at her side.  We eulogized her with stories, laughter and tears.  She was respected, loved and she will be missed.  Of course, there are many elected officials who are breathing a sigh of relief that they will no longer be badgered at all hours by Susan and her indefatigable lobbying efforts - I just want to warn them that she was not only an inspiration, she was a teacher as well.  When I am on Capital Hill fighting for better dialysis, I will be carrying some of Susan's passion for what is right with me, and in that, I hope that I can do her justice.

Tonight's picture is from this morning.  

Nancy, remembering Susan in front of a standing room only crowd.

  You see the award given to her by the State of New York earlier this year.  

What you don't see is the countless lives that she enriched.  

RIP Susan M. Cohen,
you have entered eternity and the world is now an emptier place.

Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc `07 $14.99 (not TJ's) ***

This is why wine blogging is fun. I not only get to taste the wine, feel the effects of the ETOH, but can deconstruct it and figure out just what nuances I'm tasting; all while something yummie is either bubbling away on the cooktop or gnawing in the oven.  The kitchen is an inspirational place to be - all the senses are sated.

Tonight, we had the Green Bottle.  Over the Summer, I was introduced to Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose, a pink wine that I really, really like as a versatile everyday bottle. JPH bought the Green bottle - the Sauvignon Blanc, he cooked with it (Zuppa di Pesci with fresh Smelts, Bluefish and rice) and well, I just watched him cook as I poured myself a glass. Ok, full disclosure, I operated the rice cooker - life is tough....

First sip - Wow, this is a grassy wine.  And then I realized that I have only tasted cheap grassy wines.  Wines where the grass is from behind the trailer where the lawnmower leaks petrol and the pit-bull does its business.

The Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc is a clean, crisp, slightly mineral grassy, like a perfectly manicured lawn of some Wall Street Titan - or George Clooney. (I imagine GC to be perfect in every way - why not his lawn too?) This wine was an exotic taste for me:  Bright, and slightly acidic, yet well balanced. JPH had a glass and he tasted notes of fresh pineapple.  After he said it, I got it, but I could never have identified that taste on my own.  I think it is a really is a great seafood wine. It is better than your average plonk.  It is interesting, low ETOH (12.5%) and very easy to drink.

About Mulderbosch: You have to love it when a South African ICU Doctor buys a property that the locals call a "dirty little farm", and turns it into something that gives us good wines such as this Sauvignon Blanc and the Cabernet Sauvignon Rose.  Well done Dr. Jacobs.

While I was researching this wine for the review, I came across this quote.  The cynic in me would scoff at it and say it is pretentious wine talk, but I just have to say that it struck a chord. Leave it to Robert Mondavi, that savvy American wine Pioneer to come up with a quote that I am growing to love more each time I read it.

Wine is art. It's culture. 
It's the essence of civilization and the art of living.

 - Robert Mondavi, "Harvests Of Joy," Autobiography
 

Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Canet Premiere Cru `98 (Not TJ's) ****

Let's talk Chardonnay.  Chardonnay called White Burgundy.  My first white burgundy experience was many years ago with a Latour Mersault `88. (unbeknownst to me, I kinda started at the top of the heap) I was so naive back then that I had no clue I was drinking chardonnay and the fancy name and label had me glamored.  I haven't grown in sophistication much since then, even though I now know how to  break down French wine labels into their parts, they still give me pause.  Why should drinking good wine seem like having to learn a whole new language?  It isn't just the French part, it is understanding what every line means.  Tonight, I knew that in the recent cellar clean-out, JPH had dusted off some hidden gems and we've planed meals around them, label or not, there was a dusty bottle to be had... it was going to be a good wine night.  

Tonight it was a 12 year old bottle of Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Canet Premiere Cru `98.  It was a beautiful, well balanced golden drink with hints of grapefruit and an slight effervescent minerality that danced on my tongue. We had it well chilled and as we have noticed, the first pour was not the best, the subsequent glasses were a substantial and delicious wine, clean tasting and straight forward.  It went perfectly with our rich seafood dinner.  Perfect for a cold Fall evening, after a glorious day of golden sunshine. I know that I sound flowery, but the color of the wine in the glass in the picture above right was the same golden tone that was outside as MEH and I drove from store to store looking for smoked haddock this afternoon. (Since you don't see smoked haddock on the menu, you know that we struck out - but it was still a gorgeous drive!)

No oak, plenty of body and depth of flavor (a heaviness that just feels like you have a mouthful when you drink this wine) with a highlight of grapefruit/sharp citrus, my guess is the you could be drinking this easily for another 10 years. If we had a second bottle, it would have been opened, but as it was, when dinner was over, we sated ourselves with Mochi that S brought home from Japan, watching Top Gear's "Caravan Conkers & Car Darts" (Top Gear so makes me wish I had access to a crane or two!) and then settling down for a nightcap of Grant Burge Port, and an episode of HBO's John Adams on DVD.

Menu:  Foil baked salmon with English parsley sauce; wilted spinach with pancetta and red onion; pan crusted potatoes with pancetta; leftover fish pie

As I was standing just to his right stirring the English Parsley Sauce, 

JPH took this picture. S was just behind us setting the table, 

the kitchen was full of activity 

producing the familiar smells and noises of a meal being put together.

It is like cooking in a dream and I simply don't want to wake up.

Talbott Chardonnay `91 (not TJ's) ****

It came from the beer drawer.  Actually, when we were digging around in the cellar, JPH grabbed the bottle and said "this was a GREAT wine back in the day, let's bring it upstairs". Then it languished for a week or so, waiting for the day that JPH would cook an appropriate dish for this grand old Chardonnay that had been taking up precious real-estate in his beer drawer....

Once upon a time, it was a hearty, buttery, lush Chardonnay from Talbott Vineyards in California. For almost twenty years, it has been waiting in the cellar(s) (a few moves since purchase) for it's moment to shine.  Tonight was the night.

We were worried.  Was it too late?  We had a great bottle in reserve just in case.  When JPH let me do the honors of piercing the foil, we were right to be worried.  It was a musty and brittle cork.  He went to get the good corkscrew with the long worm.  He opened it, and the bottom of the cork was sound.  There was a refreshing POP. S quickly wiped the mold from the mouth of the bottle ( note to self: always wipe the mold from the bottle that you are about to drink from - yikes, I just remembered that my transplant surgeon could read this, of course I ALWAYS wipe the mold from the bottles that I am about to drink from - well, from now on....) I put the first glass aside.  I had learned form the `89 Chateau Montelena that the first glass isn't always the best. I still don't know why, but tonight proved true, that first glass tasted NOTHING like the subsequent glasses from the bottle.

First thought: Fragile.  S correctly noted that this wine should NOT be aerated.  First sip - A flash of butter and depth, then it was like drinking the atomized mist of what once was.  There was flavor.  A light taste- not citrus, not richness, but something faint like fragile flowers. It is easy to say what this wine is not.  As to what this wine was, well, that is a bit harder to describe.  It was easy to drink.  There was no taste of ETOH at all.  It was golden, really beautiful, there was no taste of oak, yet there was a magical thickness to my tongue after I drank a mouthful - tannic texture but no taste or tannins. That was interesting, and not something that I taste very often. Between the three of us, the bottle didn't last long.

JPH paired it PERFECTLY with his Fish Pie with Rosti Caper Topping (from Delia Smith's Winter Collection).  Subtle taste with subtle taste equals sublime flavor. Sublime,  that is the word that I will use for this wine.  Yeah, sometimes wine gets lost in the cellar and a few years go by, but this wine, although past it's richness peak, maintained a flavor profile that was subtle, but extremely drinkable. And it's always fun to dust off a bottle and taste a gem.

Dutch Bill Creek Chardonnay `02 (Not TJ's) $29.99 ****

I have a lot to learn. First, I don't know white wine as well as I thought.  Second, Chardonnay CAN age. This Dutch Bill Creek Chardonnay certainly did.  It was a good wine back in the day, and it held its own today - (I did have a different bottle chilled as a safety though). Even if the bottle is covered in dust, and the cork breaks when I uncork it - don't give up like I was about to.  Sometimes, you should just push the balance of the cork into the bottle with a chopstick (kudos JPH) - grab a strainer and enjoy. After I broke the fragile cork in the bottle, I was scared.  But I listened to the conventional wisdom around the table and I nervously poured a gulp then quaffed it.  I shuddered and was ready to admit defeat, but something stopped me.  It wasn't like any chardonnay I had ever tasted.

I poured a glass for S, and she said. "mmm, good, it has that old chardonnay mushroom taste" -  "Huh", I thought to myself, I have never had a chardonnay that tasted of mushrooms.  I poured out my first glass and tried again, this time swirling, and breathing, and she was right! Nice mellow, mushroom taste - it is like it was originally a buttery chardonnay and the butter flavor deepened and became more savory.  And there was NO oakiness. Even though the wine had been aged in oak, it had mellowed and simply added to the complex depth of flavor. All three of us agreed, this was a really good eight year old bottle of wine. Our non-drinking fourth corrected me, it is NOT "Duck Bill Chardonnay" - I had been calling it by the wrong name all night - oops (did I mention that I am really bad with names???)



Obviously, I don't think that you will find a bottle of `02 chardonnay on many wine shop shelves.  This review is just to say that if you have a bottle, and it has been stored correctly - don't be scared.  Chill it, pop the cork, fish out any floating cork that may be there, and enjoy!

Menu:

Homemade Guacamole with chips
Corn on the cob
Fresh lobster rolls with homemade tarragon mayo

And, just because I love pretty things.  I'll leave you with today's flowers on the counter - friends, a good meal, a nice bottle of wine and cooking next to pretty flowers.... sigh... it is all good.

Novella Synergy Blanc `08 $6.99 ****

I liked it, I really liked it.  I was cooking an impromptu Saturday dinner and I needed a white for cooking and a white to serve with shrimp kabobs from the grill.  This Paso Robles wine was a win/win.  Not too sweet, not too dry, no oak, and a great peach finish - really good for summer.  Very easy to drink (which may be why Sunday morning was so painful when the cat started meowing to be let in at 5:40am)

I made a silly menu mistake for 80 degree NY weather and I made mushroom and pea risotto.  Umm, salad, that was the word that should have come to mind when I was shopping - oops.  Oh well.  The wine was good for making risotto. It also worked well with the spicy Guacamole I made for an appetizer.  I did not mean to make spicy guacamole, but the deceptive peppers that were in the freezer were HOT.  I should have know that, as the owners of the refrigerator like spicy southwestern food  BUT I wasn't expecting to be blasted off the scoville scale. (I am squatting housesitting between apartments). This wine works very well with spicy food.  It also held up to the saltiness of the tortilla chips.

My suggestion: cook with it, pour yourself a glass, then chill it to be served with dinner and when that bottle is polished off, move on to a nice prosecco to go with the chocolate and Grand Marnier crepes for dessert.... But that's just me.

Jason over at Jason's Wine Blog reviewed this wine and posted the blend.  55.6% Sauvignon Blanc, 40.8% Chardonnay, 3.3% Muscat Canelli and 0.3% Pinot Grigio" - Thanks Jason, and as usual, great review. I am in 100% agreement with you.

Menu:

Guacamole with Tortilla chips
Cajun Shrimp Skewers
Sirloin Tip Skewers
Mushroom Risotto
Organic Ciabatta
Chocolate Grand Mariner Crepes

LaCheteau Vouvray `09 $6.99 ****

Impromptu drinks on a late Spring evening.  I grabbed this Vouvray, wet it down, and popped it in the freezer to chill while I whipped up some h'orderves. Meanwhile, in the livingroom, the boy tried to figure out how to add Green Day and U2 to my Pete Seeger/Johnny Cash Pandora Mix.  HAH! Foiled.  (although I do like U2 and some Green Day....)

A very helpful saleslady recommended this wine when I was shopping for Summer white wine - she knew what she was talking about.

This is a fresh, fruity, slightly buttery, semi-dry (sweet(ish)) wine.  It goes great with cheese and crackers.  I could easily see this as a nice chilled picnic wine with a salad.  The dominant taste is pear, with a slight effervescence, and it does have a slight burn in the back of my throat, so I'd say drink it slowly. It is a "thick" and semi-sweet wine, but it is not cloying.  I wish we had some Brie, I think this would be a great wine with Brie and Apple. Umm Asparagus, not so much.  As a matter of fact, it is hard to match asparagus with a white wine. Brooklyn Guy wrote some good stuff about pairing wine with Asparagus.  I think he is spot on when he says:

 "For me, the classic pairing is Sauvignon Blanc. I'm talking about wines from Sancerre or Touraine, for example."

He's right, and I am going to take his advice in the future, as Asparagus is my favorite vegetable.

My final thoughts:  Good wine, well with the money.  Impressive (even with a plastic cork!) It wouldn't hurt to keep a bottle or two on hand.

Menu:
Salmon on crackers with a dill/ no fat sour cream
Deviled eggs with crispy chorizo
Steamed Asparagus with microplaned domestic Parmesan

Cantele Negroamaro Rosato IGT (not TJ's) $12.99 ***

This Italian Rose is from the heel of the boot, Puglia.  I planned my menu and then I had to find a wine that fit. This rosato fit the bill very well.  It is a dry yet slightly effervescent wine.  Not as crisp as a white wine. Slightly chilled though, it has a great light fruity smell, and a slight effervescence on the tongue. It is very easy to drink.  Not sweet, dry as a matter of fact.  No tannins, clean and good. Strawberries, I taste strawberries, tart not sweet.

Today was a glorious day at the Farmer's Market.  Mussels were $3.99 a pound, and new red onions were $3.00 a bunch.  I grabbed a bunch of parsley for a dollar, and tonight's supper was born! (bread was in the freezer from the market a few weeks ago)

Tonight's Menu:
Mussels in vermouth with celery, parsley, bay leaf, new red onions and butter.
Garlic bread